Like its previous downtown location, Sandbar was much like a pilot fish in its symbiotic relationship to a shark — in this case, the larger and more laureled Le Rêve. Though it may have been a destination for many, it was equally likely to have been a fallback for...
Street food vendors are a tradition the world over. Sometimes operating with little more than a pot over a pile of rocks, these seat-of-the-pants salesmen not only provide cheap meals on the run, but they also serve as a cultural touchstone, a kind of resistance...
It pays to shake things up. The usual MO for reviews is to take along people familiar with the cuisine in question; that way we can all bring varying degrees of perspective and expertise to the table. Literally. But occasionally it’s instructive (and fun, too, we...
The dim sum tradition, ancient in China, is almost absent in San Antonio. True, potstickers seem to have propagated throughout Asian restaurants of every stripe, and spring rolls are everywhere you turn. But the full, clangorous service with steaming carts bustling...
It’s 7 p.m. on a Wednesday evening, and Frederick’s Bistro is buzzing. We’re accorded one of the last two tables in a crowded dining room, and we sit down to wonder at the activity that some restaurants would find themselves fortunate to have on a Friday or Saturday...
Cappy Lawton has long been a pioneer of contemporary cuisine in San Antonio — perhaps the pioneer, if we really think about it. Though he’s flirted with formats as diverse as EZ’s and the old, legendary Quarter House, and has lately taken a turn south of the border at...
It can’t be easy being an icon. Yet it seems that Joe Cosniac, who, along with then partner, Nick Pacelli, opened Paesano’s in the post-HemisFair culinary frenzy of the early 70’s (a time that also brought us Crumpets’ Francois Maeder), has been a fixture from the...
The pizzas have personality The Spanish term barbaro — accent on the first “a,” can mean exactly what it sounds like: awful, terrible and, yes, barbaric. And, more popularly, it can mean the opposite: great, wonderful …We don’t know what Charlie Biedenharn and Chad...
Thoroughly French on Broadway Behind an unassuming storefront on an only marginally more noteworthy block of lower Broadway lies an unexpected surprise: Saveurs 209, a thoroughly French restaurant run by a genuine French family — in rigorously French fashion....
The Granary, once the home of Pearl’s cooper, or barrel maker, occupies one of the few structures of true historic interest at Pearl — not counting the signature brewery itself, soon to be reborn as a spiffy hotel. In summer, the respectfully restored cottage’s wide...
